Tons of ripe, lush cherry, blackberry and spice flavors here, but the wine overcomes simple fruitiness to achieve real complexity. Fully dry, with no residual sugar and moderate alcohol, and the tannins are rich yet supple and yielding. Of course, those cool climate acids provide a bracing structure. The finish is long, intricate and detailed.——S.H.(10/1/2003)—— 92