The 2006 Riesling Smaragd Kaiserberg offers aromas of ripe pit fruits with a faintly bitter and sizzling amalgam of citrus zest, evergreen needles, and what, for lack of any better description, one is compelled to call “minerality.” It manages to be voluminous yet sharp, obviously ripe, yet severe, almost jagged in its finishing character. A hint of heat (despite under 14% alcohol) adds a further question mark to the direction in which this wine might evolve. Drink it before it drinks you? Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Pale green-yellow. Aromas and flavors of pineapple, papaya and peach. Brisk and nicely balanced, with lemony acidity lending vitality. A flavor of grapefruit zest lingers on the finish. An excellent food wine, for drinking from 2009 through 2016.