The 2010 Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Roussanne Vieilles Vignes has off-the-charts richness. Keep in mind, the elevage here is slightly different, as it is aged in one-year-old barrels with a touch of new oak, but like its sibling, no longer undergoes malolactic fermentation. A profound wine with hints of nectarine, mango, subtle smoke, rose petals, this sumptuous, full-throttle wine has unmistakable minerality, a skyscraper-like texture and an amazingly laser-like finish with incredible amounts of glycerin and fruit. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. Although some vintages can last 20-30 years, they undergo radical changes in their evolution, making it almost impossible to guess where they are in evolutionary terms.
As I said last year, the Perrin family is a large one indeed, with brothers Jean-Pierre and Francois sitting at the top of the hierarchy and their four sons, Mathieu, Pierre, Thomas and Marc increasingly taking charge of their negociant business and their extensive estates throughout Southern Rhone. Now controlling over 1200 acres, as well as having a network of contracts, this operation is the equivalent of a major Southern Rhone train operating at high speed. Moreover, they are doing some incredible work in all price ranges. Other 2011s that the Perrin boys have produced include the following wines, which were very good across the board, especially for 2011s. In particular, readers need to take a hard look at their estate in Vinsobres, which is making the finest wines of that appellation, and more recently, what they are doing in Gigondas with the estate they purchased there, Clos des Tourelles. These are special wines. There are now three cuvees of Gigondas from the Perrins - the Gigondas La Gille, the Gigondas Vieilles Vignes and the Gigondas Clos des Tourelles. All three merit serious attention. Tasting the 2010s, which were all set to go into bottle right after my visit, certainly shows that this vintage is impressive, although I'm not sure that Marc and Pierre Perrin haven't done as good a job with their selections in 2011. Three cuvees of Gigondas look to all have outstanding potential and will probably be in bottle by the time this report is published.
Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802