Here’s a powerful, exuberant Chardonnay that’s perfectly comfortable with its enormous fruit and considerable oak. The flavors of pineapple jam, papayas, ripe nectarines, green apple-infused creme brulee and peppery, cinnamon spice almost overwhelm, but are balanced with brisk Carneros acidity that gives a cleansing touch to the finish.——S.H.(10/1/2008)—— 92