The 2006 “MONTE VELHO” is a modestly priced wine that is widely available and intended to fill a low end, everyday niche. The brand is very familiar in Portugal, and it usually delivers good value for short term drinking. It has a somewhat disjointed start, but recovers quickly. It shows some darker chocolate notes initially, and has light tannins around the edges. Despite its low-end niche in Esporao’s lineup, it does have some structure and can improve for awhile with air. It feels surprisingly full on the palate at first, but it is the type of wine that will fade and be slightly less interesting as it ages. It will likely drink best from late 2007 through 2009. It is perfectly pleasant, but I don’t think it has quite the charm or beautiful balance of the 2004. Drink now-2010. Importers: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044; Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843.

With its 5 million bottle production, this is one of Portugal’s leading brands. It is a ripe wine, but with a stalky element, giving freshness, although the aftertaste is soft, perhaps sweet, very easy, ripe.——R.V.(12/15/2007)—— 86