The 2009 Etna Rosso Quota 600 comes across as a bit ethereal and even a touch fragile, but the wine’s textural finesse compensates for some of the freshness and vibrancy that is missing. Hints of tobacco, crushed flowers and herbs add complexity on the nicely delineated finish. Overall, the 2009 appears to be a vintage best enjoyed sooner rather than later. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2015. Alberto Graci’s wines are loaded with character and personality. In particular, the Etna Bianco and Rosso deliver superb quality for the money in a part of Italy where making value-priced wines is rendered virtually impossible by the high farming costs imposed by terrains that are hard to work. Graci bottles without fining or filtration, which means the wines can sometimes appear cloudy, but that is purely cosmetic and no need for concern. Importer: Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769