The 2007 Pinot Nero is fat, juicy and ripe, but also impeccably balanced. This opulent Pinot flows from the glass as sensual varietal fruit is laced with elements of flowers, spices and game in a wine of notable purity. To be sure, the warmth of Panzano is felt, but the wine remains remarkably centered and poised. This is a gorgeous effort. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2017. My visit to Fontodi last year was fascinating, as I spent several hours with proprietor Giovanni Manetti and oenologist Franco Bernabei tasting through multiple barrels of all of the estate’s wines. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907