The 2009 vintage has given Fontodi’s Pinot Nero Case Via tons of depth and sheer power. The Case Via boasts striking richness and muscle, but less in the way of true varietal character. If that side of the wine’s personality develops, the 2009 could turn out to be stunning. Today it is the super-ripe, at times candied fruit that dominates the wine’s sense of balance. Sweet floral, mint and spiced notes wrap around the huge, textured finish. The 2009 needs time to come together. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. I was in Panzano in mid-August 2009, just as a huge heat wave began to take hold of Northern Italy. Growers were tempted to pick early, but Sangiovese is a late-ripening variety that needs the extra hang time to develop its full range of aromas and flavors. Proprietor Giovanni Manetti waited until late September to start harvesting, and it paid off. His Sangiovese based wines in particular are fabulous in 2009. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907