The 2009 Syrah Suisassi is another huge, exotic wine bursting with rich dark fruit. Black cherries, plums, spices, new leather, licorice and tar build towards the explosive, striking finish. The 2009 needs another few years to integrate its oak, but it is already shaping up to be a magnificent wine. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Redemption – that must be one of the principal themes running through Luca D’Attoma’s mind these days. One of Italy’s superstar consulting oenologists, D’Attoma helped launch many wineries that went on to become superstars. But his uncompromising ways and the strict demands on quality he placed on winery owners weren’t to everyone’s liking, so over the years D’Attoma’s client list dwindled. In the meantime, D’Attoma and his partner Elena Celli launched their own winery and started making notable wines of their own. Now after several years, many of the original clients are back and D’Attoma is at the top of his game. At Duemani, the vineyards are certified biodynamic and winemaking is stripped down to the bare essentials, with cement taking on an increasing role as a fermentation and aging vessel. This year D’Attoma and Celli have a new wine, CiFRA (100% Cabernet Franc) that is off the charts. Importer: A.I. Selections, Astoria, NY; tel. (718) 777-2243