The 2004 Remelluri is 80% Tempranillo with the balance Garnacha, Graciano, and Mazuelo. Aromas of earthy minerals, forest floor, iodine, and blackberry lead to an elegant, racy Rioja with spicy fruit and enough structure to evolve for 4-6 years. It is a bit lean in the finish but additional cellaring may round it out. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

After escaping a gaseous, sulfuric opening, Remelluri evolves into the serious, world-class wine that it is. Blackberry is dominant on both the nose and palate, while the feel is ripe, pumped up and loaded with fruit and tannin. The more it airs out, the more maxed out it gets. This is a big black-fruit wine to drink now or over the next few years.——M.S.(2/1/2009)—— 91