From an upper terrace whose vines are kept almost perpetually stress-free by a nearby spring, Loewen’s 2007 Thornicher Ritsch Riesling Auslese A.P. 16 mingles alluring essence of apple (akin to fine Normandy cider) with a complex amalgam of honey, medicinal herbal, green tea, and decadently floral, musky, animal essences. After such an advertisement for noble rot and the arousal of kinky expectations, the palate proves remarkably – and delightfully – fresh-fruited, elegant, delicate, and wafting, with a finish like the inhalation of herbal and cider essences along with juicy refreshment and cut. The complexity promised on the nose is persistently present, only requiring a bit of patience with the glass. This wine memorably illustrates not just the greatness of a nowadays obscure site, but also Loewen’s recent intentions to render Auslesen that are intriguing and fun to drink as well as food-friendly. Not that its immediate appeal should be taken as an indication that this Riesling requires drinking young. I would expect 20 years from it. Karl-Josef Loewen finds similarities in character between 2007 and 2002, which he illustrated with a now spectacular Thornicher Ritsch Spatlese, a wine I already admired in its youth, but about whose combination of botrytis and slight severity of acids I at that stage expressed slight concern. Still, I was not entirely convinced by the analogy, or by certain of Loewen’s 2007s. Few German growers I know are as sanguine about botrytis in general as he, and it certainly touched most of his wines in 2007, at times awkwardly.Importer:Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300