The black/purple-colored 1998 Cornas Coteaux possesses noteworthy creme de cassis aromas meshed with smoke and toasty wood. Obviously made from low yields, it is a rustic, tannic, backward wine that will benefit from 3-4 years of cellaring. It will keep for 12-15 years. If the tannin becomes better integrated, it will come close to meriting an outstanding rating. A Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris fax # 011 33 1 42 84 38 22), various American importers, including Adventures in Wine, Daly City, CA; tel. (415) 467-0130, Atlantic Importing Co., Newton, MA; tel. (617) 965-2933, Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901, and New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (843) 497-8625