The 2010 Rosso di Montalcino opens to a brilliant ruby color and tightly focused aromas of forest berry, white almond, cola, bramble and anisette. It exhibits a stunning sense of lightness and buoyancy. Of course, that characteristic note of acidic freshness and menthol makes for a resounding finish and is testament of the enormous quality of fruit in 2010. Drink: 2014-2022. Perhaps the most iconic image in Montalcino is that of the lanky Franco Biondi Santi walking, cane in hand, down the cypress-lined drive that leads to his beloved Il Greppo estate. It's painful to think he no longer exists in that tight corridor of shade between the trees. The Brunello pioneer died in April 2013, at 92 years of age. Today, the imposing figure who greets you past the tree line belongs to his son, Jacopo Biondi Santi. The legacy of this estate and the guardianship of Montalcino-s most prized wine tradition now rests squarely on his shoulders. "I'm not afraid to say it," Jacopo confides: "I'm daunted by the enormity of this responsibility." This conversation was the single most precious moment I experienced during my last trip to Montalcino. Like many others, I was concerned about the generational shift at Il Greppo. Dottore Biondi Santi did everything himself and who could ever take his place? More importantly: Would the wines change? My exchange with Jacopo and that glimmer of vulnerability assured me that Il Greppo would be just fine. Jacopo has made some small tweaks in the winery. Most notably he brought his bladder press over from Castello di Montepo to replace his father's traditional press. Otherwise, the Old World formality of the winery is exactly the same. Importer: Vision Wine & Spirits, www.visionwineandspirits.com