The red wines begin with the 2006 Merlot Canoe Ridge Estate which was aged for 18 months in French and American oak. Deep crimson-colored, the nose displays plenty of spice notes along with a slight herbal component. Full-bodied on the palate, this smooth-textured, savory effort has enough structure to evolve for 2-3 years. Drink it through 2018. Chateau Ste. Michelle continues to demonstrate that a winery can be large and quality-oriented at the same time. Their current collection is as good as or better than anything it has done in the past.Tel. (425) 415-3300; www.ste-michelle.com

A good case can be made that the Horse Heaven Hills AVA makes the best Merlots in Washington. Soft, smooth and lightly leathery, this dense wine is loaded with dry extract, lending weight and depth to the young black fruit core. Barrel aging adds layers of cocoa powder and fine-grained coffee grounds as the wine runs into its finish.——P.G.(12/1/2009)—— 89