The 2003 Reserva went through malolactic in barrel followed by 18 months in new French oak. Dark ruby colored, it is a bit muted aromatically but with coaxing gives up notes of toasty oak, mineral, tobacco, and blackberry. On the palate, it is quite firmly structured but balanced. It has plenty of flesh, spicy black fruit flavors, and solid length. This wine will benefit from 3-5 years of additional cellaring and drink well through 2020. Bodegas Baigorri is said to be one of the showplace wineries of Rioja, designed by Basque architect Inaki Aspiazu Iza. The Bodegas ferments its wines with native yeasts and uses only French oak. Importer: F.L. Navarro, Quality Wines of Spain, New York, NY; tel. (212) 842-8181

A complete wine with a bold bouquet strengthened by ample oak. Ripe, portly and smooth in the mouth, with dark fruit flavors touched up by herbal tea and tobacco accents. Long and chocolaty on the finish. Chewy and a bit tannic; drink now through 2011.——M.S.(12/15/2009)—— 90