Bai Gorri’s 2004 Reserva was sourced from vines over 40 years of age and aged in new French oak for 18 months before bottling without filtration. Dark cherry red in color, it displays an excellent nose of pain grille, pencil lead, leather, spice box, blackberry, and licorice. Full-bodied on the palate, it has layers of succulent fruit, a silky texture, impeccable balance, several years of aging potential, and a lengthy, pure finish. Drink it from 2012 to 2024. Importer: DFV Wines; www.dfvwines.com

Sweet red fruit, cream, spice and cedar, notes of new oak. Concentrated, powerful, very focused style, with lovely refreshing acidity. Powerful, but fine-textured tannins. Manages to be elegant as well as powerful.

5 Aromas of bold black cherry, leather, bacon and sandalwood scream “modern,” yet its age renders it a bit classical. The palate is mildly woody but the flavors or creamy vanilla, dill and balsamic berry fruits are excellent. Toasty and full of coffee and depth on the finish. Drink now through 2014. ——M.S.(2/1/2011)—— 91