This is the winery’s most expensive bottling, a late disgorged bubbly that has now seen a decade of age. It shows the elegant polish of the ’97 Royal Cuvee, but is superior even to it in richness. The creamy smoothness is the star attraction, but so are the subtle citrus, raspberry, brioche and vanilla flavors. Impeccably dry balance guarantees that this beautiful brut will age effortlessly for 10 years, if not longer.——S.H.(12/31/2007)—— 95