Sheer charming sweetness of fruit and admirable proportionality lift Lignier's 2006 Bourgogne above the quality of its 2005 counterpart. Cherry and rhubarb are juicy, invigorating, and mouth-coating, while the roughly 20% of new wood applied here pleasantly sweetens and spices the fruit. This finishes pure and refined, if simple.
Virgile Lignier shared the surprise expressed by many growers at how steadily the 2006s improved in the course of their elevage. He experienced only a 15% drop in net yield vis-a-vis 2005, noting that most of the fruit he discarded was what had suffered from hail rather than succumbed to rain and rot.
Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet; fax 011-333-80-24-29-70
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