A beautifully complex, elegant bouquet of cedar, spice box, tobacco, strawberries, and black cherry jam is followed by a medium-bodied, supple-textured wine with luscious fruit, superb harmony, and ripe tannin. Nothing is out of balance in this seductive 1998. Drink it over the next 4-7 years. Not surprisingly, Riccardo Cotarella is Nottola's oenologist. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620