Gilles Jayer’s 2005 Echezeaux du Dessus is so- labeled (with “du Dessus” in smaller print) to call attention to the prime portion of this too-large grand cru in which it originates. After the virtual attack mounted on the senses by this year’s Les Damodes, we now have something a bit more sedate and sorted-out. A flamboyant aroma of black raspberry confiture, creme de cassis, coconut, clove, nutmeg, star anise and roasted meats leads to a clear, sweetly-fruited, smoke-tinged palate and a finish that reverberates with low-toned stony mineral notes and pure peals of gloriously ripe yet brightly ringing fruit. Two thousand five has been a year to witness some amazing successes from those portions of Echezeaux that nature designed for great Pinot potential, but the quality from Jayer-Gilles and his vines has seldom been less than outstanding year after year. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083.