Despite the warm vintage, the 2003 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico XX Anni in Due Secoli has held up beautifully. Yes, the tertiary aromas have slowly inched up to dominate the bouquet, but they also add elegance and sophistication. Leather, Indian spice box, cured meat, smoked bacon, dried fruit and balsam herb form a pretty bouquet. The wine evolves quickly in the glass. A note of jammy fruit pops up on the end and reminds you of the 2003 summer heat. Drink 2013-2017. Corteforte is a beautiful castle built in the 1400s with crenulated watchtowers that soar above Pergola-trained vines. It’s a tiny, boutique estate run by Carlo Maria Cerutti who farms a mere three hectares of vine. As they say, “good things come in small packages,” and Corteforte has delivered quite a few gems this year. Importer: The Wine Company, www.thewinecompany.net