The Bursin 2007 Sylvaner Eminence displays black tea and herbal aromas; is satisfyingly juicy with underlying alkalinity; and finishes soothingly and subtly sweet. It displays a bit more brightness than the 2006 but lacks that wine’s nutty depth. I would plan on enjoying this over the next several years, but to be honest I have not yet tasted an Eminence bottling after more than three years, and the project is young.Agathe Bursin – for more about whom consult issue 175 – is one of Alsace’s major emerging talents, as witness her surprisingly fine showing in the difficult 2006 vintage. Bursin’s 2007 vintage Rieslings are comparatively firm, though they may well blossom short-term, and as usual she has scored impressive results with Gewurztraminer.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29