With the estate’s dry wines, it wasn’t until we came to the 2004 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Spatlese trocken that things got interesting, and then delicious. This smells of grapefruit, jasmine, and melons. In the mouth, it displays a shimmering interplay of citrus with salty, subtly stony minerality and toasted nut low tones. The finish is bell clear and long on succulent fruit, salt and slate. There has long been a provision for drip lines in the Hahn as a controlled experiment, but Peter Jost says that Mother Nature pretty much delivered the right amount of water in 2004 without technological assistance. This is not the first year in which the starting point for Jost’s wines was a must weight legally sufficient for Auslese. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300