Fresh apple, mango, and grapefruit, peony and salt spray alluringly scent the 2008 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Spatlese trocken, whose citrus, salt, wet stone, and inner-mouth florality offer considerable interest, but miss quite the juiciness or lift of its “Devon S” counterpart. As with many of the dry wines at this address – and contrary to vintage tendencies – this exhibits richness and density at the expense of a bit of elegance or refreshment that I, for one, would prefer. I’m not convinced it should be held for long. Young Cecilia Jost is taking charge of the cellar here. In 2008, though, she was tied up with a commitment to harvest in Austria, so Peter and Linde Jost were still calling the shots. Given the ripening tendencies of the Jost’s great, steep, near-monopole Hahn (which is the reason Josts have now planted a site high above it to try to get back to real Kabinett) as well as the lees contact that Peter Jost favors, the 2008 vintage offered a possible antidote to high alcohol, lack of transparency or massiveness that are occasionally exhibited at this address, while permitting a later harvest than Josts have “enjoyed” (assuming you consider that the right word) in some years, lasting until November 10.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300