For anyone seeking an American version of a fine German Kabinett, David Hill’s Rieslings should be your first stop. Vintage after vintage this winery nails it. Flower, fruit, citrus, light lemony honey, Jonathan apple, Asian pear, it just goes on and on in the mouth. At 12% alcohol, you might expect a sweeter wine, but the juicy acids keep it nice and dry through the finish. ——P.G.(10/1/2010)—— 92