A spice bomb that's loaded with black raspberry, licorice, smoke and meat notes, finishing with briary tannins. 536 cases made. -TF

When Russian River Zinfandel succeeds, and this one does, it marries the variety’s wild, feral personality to the valley’s perfect terroir to produce distinctive wines. Ottimino’s 2005 Von Weidlich is very tannic, but classic in presentation, showing blackberry, currant and intense black pepper aromas and flavors. Might tempt you to cellar it, but it’s best over the next year for sheer exuberance.——S.H.(3/1/2009)—— 92