The 2002 Chardonnay, a deep golden yellow, is richly oaky, peachy, and alcoholic in aroma, full and sustained on the palate, and with some surprisingly fresh and bracing acidity on the close. It will profit from fairly rapid consumption. After a fine group of results in the 1999 and 2000 vintages, I was a bit less happy with these 2001’s. A certain tartness was present in many of the wines, and while acidification is anything but scandalous in an area this far south, the rather obvious presence of acidity is an indication that the wines themselves are less concentrated and consequently less balanced. The house is apparently aiming at an overall production of close to three million bottles, and I am far from convinced that this is such a good idea. Is the glass half full or half empty here? It depends on one’s point of view, but I am convinced that the resources for better wines than these exist. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200