Much more backward, austere, and leaner, with higher tannin and an incredible earthiness (almost an essence of truffle) is the kirsch-laden, tannic 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Charles Giraud. This is more of a long-term prospect compared to the other wines in the portfolio, and seemed closed but with outstanding potential the day I tasted it. Buyers of this wine should have some degree of patience and hold it for 2-3 years, then drink it over the following 15+. Ever since winemaker Isabel Ferrando released her fabulous 2003s, this superb estate has become one of my favorite estates in Chateauneuf du Pape. Located in the Serres quarter of the appellation, where the football-sized rocks are especially noticeable, all one has to do is taste the 2003 Charles Giraud from Saint-Prefert to realize what exceptional heights can be reached. There are three cuvees, all of them particularly brilliant in 2007. If you haven’t discovered Saint-Prefert and the brilliant winemaker Isabel Ferrando, it’s about time! Importer: Daniel Johnnes Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 625-2505