The 1986 Arana Reserva offers a complex, cigar box-scented nose, soft, ripe, medium-bodied flavors, a lovely sense of balance, and a sweet finish. It should be drunk over the next 5-7 years.Eschewing the modern style of Rioja that is bottled after several years of aging in American oak casks, Rioja Alta remains one of the few Spanish bodegas dedicated to making traditionally-styled Riojas. While I do not want to denigrate the modern style, there is a lot to be said for wines such as these. They are released when fully mature, yet they hold for a considerable amount of time. The five offerings described in this issue all demonstrate impeccable winemaking. They possess plenty of sweet, vanillin, smoky new oak, as well as wonderfully ripe, succulent textures. Importer: Europvin USA, Watertown, MA.
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