In what must be the New World’s finest value in Chardonnay, there are slightly more than two million cases of the 2004 Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay, for the first time made completely from Jackson Estate vineyards. Eighty-five percent barrel fermented, with malolactic fermentation, this is undeniably the finest Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay K-J has yet made. A beautiful nose of orange skins, honeysuckle, and tropical fruit is followed by a medium-bodied effort with terrific fruit, good acidity, a subtle influence of wood, and a crisp finish. It should drink well for another 12-18 months. Tel. (800) 769-3649; Fax (800) 600-5985

K-J is justifiably proud that all the grapes in the VR Chard now come from Jackson estate vineyards. Another change is the wine seems drier than in past years, more balanced. That's a real step forward.——S.H.(2/1/2006)—— 84