Exhibiting creamy mineral, honeysuckle, and malt aromas, the Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes has a wonderfully thick, defined, elegant, oily, and mouth-coating medium-to-full-bodied personality. Layers of cake icing, nuts, flowers, and ripe pears are buttressed by bright acidity in this super-ripe, complex, and extremely long wine. Projected maturity: 2003-2008. In their youth, Matrot's whites often appear to be lean, but, like Francois Jobard's Meursaults, it is because they are wound as tightly as a spring. If they must be drunk young, readers should decant them prior to the meal. This estate officially has two names, Domaine Joseph Matrot and Domaine Pierre Matrot. "Joseph" is used for wines sold to Vineyard Brands (these include the Meursault, Meursault Les Chevalieres, Meursault Blagny, Meursault Charmes, Puligny-Montrachet Les Chalumeaux, and the two reds that will be reviewed in the upcoming Cote de Beaune report). The Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Company imports Domaine Pierre Matrot's wines, which include the Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes, Meursault Perrieres, Puligny-Montrachet Les Chalumeaux, and the Volnay Santenots. Importer for Domaine Joseph Matrot: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802. Importer for Domaine Pierre Matrot: Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel (212) 572-7725.