The outstanding 1998 Puligny Montrachet Combettes offers demure nut and mineral aromas. Sweet toasted hazelnuts, pears, herbal tea, and flowers can be found in this well-fashioned, medium-bodied wine. Produced from low yields, it has outstanding depth of fruit, and a long, lemon-lime-filled finish. Drink it over the course of the next 7 years. Importer for Domaine Joseph Matrot: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802. Importer for Domaine Pierre Matrot: Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel (212) 572-7725.