Why “one-star” 2005 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese*? Simply because Kerpen thought it better than any “normal” Beerenauslese he has bottled, and at 180 Oechsle was picked at a 20% premium in sugar over T.B.A. minimum. Sharp botrytis pungency, lemon meringue, fresh grapefruit and apple jelly aromas lead to a concentrated, almost tongue-shreddingly bright palate that is firm and insistently citric as well as honeyed. Citrus zest, wet stone, and the bitter side of vanilla bean emerge prominently in this Riesling’s honeyed, viscous, glycerin-rich, yet still almost sharply citric finish. Almost certainly this concentrate needs some additional months or a year just to come into proper focus and suggest future balance. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300