This perfectly captures this spectacular vineyard’s flavor “stamp”—a beguiling mix of aromas, flavors and textures that begin with orange peel and moist earth and unfold across the palate in a graceful jumble. Streaks of compost, raw meat, tart berry and good funk run together seamlessly, creating a supple, continuously enjoyable wine that just doesn’t want to quit. Notably, the alcohol is listed at just 13.8%—and it feels natural and fully ripe at that level. ——P.G.(5/1/2011)—— 94