It is one of the mysteries of viticulture how a vineyard in the chilly lower Carneros, better suited for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, can consistently produce such a glorious Cabernet Sauvignon. The little knoll it grows on seems to be a well-drained banana belt. The ’03, like its predecessors, is rich and balanced in black currant, cherry, milk chocolate and sweet herb flavors, and is soft enough for immediate drinking. But it should develop well for many years.——S.H.(5/1/2008)—— 92