The 2011 Dolcetto d’Alba is a serious red. Firm yet polished tannins provide the backbone for layers of expressive varietal dark fruit. All the elements are in the right place. Readers who prefer the simple, vinous style of Dolcetto might find this a little too intense, but those in search of a complex wine made by one of Piedmont’s finest artisan growers will flip out over the quality and value. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. Renato Corino’s entry-level wines deliver tons of quality for the money. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411; Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887