The 2015 Old Bastard Shiraz, from vines planted in 1893, boasts ethereal aromas of menthol, licorice, blueberries and roasted meat. It's a big, full-bodied wine, yet it comes across as lighter than expected, with a fluid, silky feel on the palate and a bright, peppery finish. A wine of seeming contradictions, it's concentrated but lively, ripe yet crisp, savory and fruity, and loaded up front while being long on the finish. It should drink well for over a decade.