Some clove and cardamom notes add character to the toasty, barrel-driven nose. In the mouth, rich black cherry and blackberry flavors seem as though they were infused with some brandy or Port. The finish is all fruit, so much so that one reviewer called the wine a fruit ball that departs from tradition. Still it’s ripe, healthy and should age for quite some time. ——W.E.(5/1/2003)—— 89