The 2007 Pinot Noir Reserve Release is dark ruby-colored with an aromatic array of balsam wood, spice box, mineral, black cherry, and black raspberry. Elegant, savory, and intense on the palate, it will evolve for several years and offer prime drinking from 2010 to 2017. De Bortoli produces a substantial amount of wine (it has four winemaking facilities) but under the leadership of manager/winemaker Stephen Webber this has not been a deterrent to high quality. Eight value wines were reviewed in Issue 178 and merit serious interest. The main winery facility which I visited in September 2008 is located in the cooler climate Yarra Valley where the focus is on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.Importer: De Bortoli Wines USA, Hoboken, NJ; tel. (201) 714-9700

De Bort's Reserve Releases, highly acclaimed in Australia, continue to confound. The 2007 is a medium-bodied, crisply constructed wine that combines subtle smoky notes with earth and roasted root vegetables. Silky tannins on the finish suggest some improvement is possible over the next 2-3 years.——J.C.(11/1/2009)—— 86