The 2008 Yarra Valley Reserve Release Pinot Noir has a pale ruby color with a hint of orange and expressive notes of warm raspberries and strawberry preserves with nuances of dried Mediterranean herbs, mocha and cinnamon stick. Light to medium bodied with a backbone of very high acid and medium level grainy tannins, it has just enough berry flavor and a long finish. Drinking nicely now, it should remain good through 2014. Importer: De Bortoli Wines USA Inc, Tel: + 1 201 714 9700; www.debortoli.com.au.

Winemaker Steve Webber has crafted another high-strung, taut Pinot Noir whose charms are not immediately apparent. Aromas of moss, mushroom and herb are intriguing, but backed by tart cherry and cranberry fruit, leaving an overall impression that’s lean and a bit herbal. Try in 2–3 years.——J.C.(7/1/2011)—— 85