One of Chapoutier’s finest 2004s emerges from the south. A sleeper selection that sells for a song, the 2004 Cotes du Rhone Belleruche (two-thirds Grenache and one-third Syrah) exhibits smoky cassis fruit intermixed with cherries, garrigue, and pepper. This dark ruby-colored, medium-bodied, soft, delicious red should drink well for 2-3 years.

Rather cool and minerally, reflecting both the vintage and the house style. It’s restrained on the nose, then offers crisp cherry flavors and a middle-of-the-road mouthfeel. Drink now. ——J.C.(11/15/2006)—— 84