Greek Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Oenoforos

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The 2004 CABERNET SAUVIGNON OENOFOROS is the current release, showing fresher than the one year difference in age would suggest between it and the 2003 I saw at the winery. Given the evidence I saw from a vertical tasting presented to me at the winery, all of the Cabernets here tend to be on the lean side, with modest mid-palates and fruit that fades and projects tertiary aromas in only a few years. That said, they can be quite pleasant young and their pricing is very modest. The first release was the 1997; the first wine of some interest, at least currently, was the 2001, which showed fully mature, but was still reasonably pleasant. As the current release, the ’04 shows fresher and considerably fruitier than most of the older vintages. It is compact, but there is some structure here and it delivers some bang for the buck. This is in a good place now, although it will continue to hold (but not improve) for a few years. Drink now-2011. Greek Wine Cellars is an umbrella name for a big company that encompasses several brands and acquisitions, including Kourtaki (a familiar, mass market brand once said to have been synonymous with Retsina) and the more upscale Oenoforos.Importer: Nestor Imports, New York, N.Y.; tel: (212) 267-1133.