De Bortoli make perhaps the finest botrytis Semillon in Australia, and even this version is a pretty tasty drop. The dried apricot aromas also fold in scents of paraffin, honey, cinnamon and clove, giving it unusual complexity, while the flavors are sweet but balanced by just-adequate acidity. Not for aging, but this is luscious now and over the next few years. ——J.C.(12/15/2008)—— 89