Just about any French vineyard owner will talk terroir given the opportunity, but no one argues the case for terroir more passionately than Marcel Deiss. Should any readers be traveling to Alsace, Deiss is definitely a man worth visiting. All of his wines exhibit distinctive personalities. Riesling is king at the Deiss estate, although I note my highest ratings are often awarded to his other wines. Nevertheless, these Rieslings are classics in the austere, dry, mineral-dominated style. Offering up orange/grapefruit scents, the dry, medium-bodied 1992 Riesling Grasberg possesses excellent richness in its honeyed orange flavor component. Still young and exuberant, it will be even better after 1-2 more years of cellaring. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083