The 2004 Helix Syrah is purple-colored with aromas of meat, game, and blueberry. There are some spicy blue fruits along with full tannins and a compact finish. Time may round this wine out but I would opt for drinking it over the near term. Tel. (509) 522-1994; www.reiningerwinery.com

What’s not to like? This is just flat-out delicious, dark and spicy with a strong streak of mint and menthol. The fruit is tight, true and tangy, showing a taut mix of berry, cassis and plum. It’s hard to believe that Chuck Reininger doesn’t slap a “Reserve” label on this and double the price.——P.G.(3/1/2007)—— 90