The 2006 Syrah was sourced from 5 vineyards and aged in neutral barrels. Dark ruby-colored, it displays a bouquet of pepper, bacon, and blueberry. Soft, plush, and savory on the palate, this lengthy effort will deliver pleasure through 2016. The Helix label is produced by Reininger Winery (reviewed separately) for their wines carrying a Columbia Valley AVA.Tel. (509) 522-1994; www.reiningerwinery.com

Smooth and supple, this Helix Syrah is consistent with past efforts. There’s more than a trace of herb and earth, plenty of acid and some tannins with more than a hint of compost and green tea. But for all that earthiness the wine has grip and concentration, with fruit that seems natural and honest. Don’t look for jam or sweet preserves; this is more to the gamy, herbal side of the grape, but beautifully balanced.——P.G.(5/1/2009)—— 91