The Vissoux 2008 Fleurie Poncie offers palate-staining black fruits and serious grip, with iodine and peat, rose hip and cherry pit; and as usual for this site, salt and stone lending intriguing complexity. The sheer lip-smacking juiciness on display here can draw your attention from its complexity. Cellar it for at least 4-5 years. Pierre Chermette has successfully expanded from his base in southern Beaujolais without quality in any way suffering; on the contrary his mastery of the northern Beaujolais crus is now also a fait accompli. With the new generation coming on and with lots of new plans, following these wines – which, of course, includes in your own cellar – is going to continue to be exciting. Prices have crept upward, but given the quality – not to mention the labors needed to achieve it – one can hardly complain. Yields were very low in 2008, a condition, Chermette opines, for achieving genuine and complete ripeness. (Note that since Chermette’s label now features his name writ large and “Vissoux” in tiny letters, I have listed his wines accordingly.)Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

From 30-year-old vines, this is a big, jolly wine packed with ripe fruits, red plum juice and a full burst of richness in the mouth. The fruit is so ripe it is almost sweet, leaving a delicious strawberry flavor.——R.V.(11/1/2009)—— 89