As it nears its 19th birthday, Jean-Marc Vinent's 2000 Auxey-Duresses Blanc Les Hautés is drinking very well, unfurling in the glass to reveal a lovely bouquet of golden orchard fruit, clear honey, iodine and hints of citrus oil. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with impressive cut and tension, good depth at the core, and a beautifully defined and distinctly sapid finish. This domaine has come a long way over the years—indeed, it's among the most dynamic addresses in the C?te de Beaune—but this 2000 Auxey-Duresses demonstrates that it has long been top-flight.