Jean-Marc Vincent's 2017 Auxey-Duresses Blanc Les Hautés lives up to its excellent performance from barrel, unfurling to reveal aromas of Anjou pear, Meyer lemon, hazelnuts and white flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with super concentration and a long, chalky finish. This parcel was planted some 80 years ago by Vincent's great-granduncle.