The 2013 Volnay 1er Cru Chevrets includes 50% whole-cluster fruit. It has a tightly wound, much more backward nose than the Clos des Angles ’13 this year. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and a gentle grip, a dash of white pepper toward the finish livening things up. Give it a year or two after bottling, by which time it will hopefully have lost its bashful disposition.